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The Quilter’s Fabric Dictionary: 57 Terms You Need to Know

May 9, 2025 by Shellie Wilson Leave a Comment

a-z-quilters-terminology-slang-what-does-it-mean image

Picture this: It’s your first quilting class. You’ve got shiny new scissors, a rainbow of thread, and that giddy excitement that comes with starting a creative journey. Then the instructor says, “Today we’ll be working with FQs, WOF, and SID on our UFOs—just mind the scrim in your low-loft batting!”

Cue the internal panic.

I’ll never forget how my stomach dropped in that moment. I’d walked in feeling prepared, only to realize quilters spoke what might as well have been a foreign language. The other students nodded along while I frantically scribbled nonsense in my notebook: FQ = fancy quilt? WOF = width of… fabric? Maybe?

That night, I went down an internet rabbit hole that left me more confused. Every tutorial assumed I knew terms like “bias grain” and “bearding.” Fabric store employees talked about “blenders” and “mottled prints” like I should just know. And don’t get me started on batting—why did something called “80/20” sound like a highway exit?

After a disastrous first project (where I used the wrong fabric, misunderstood the grainline, and wound up with a quilt that puckered like a prune), I made a vow: I would decode this language once and for all.

What followed was two years of:

  • Embarrassing fabric store moments (“You want substrate for what now?”)

  • Costly mistakes (RIP that $80 batik that bled everywhere)

  • Late-night epiphanies (“OH! ‘FQ’ stands for fat quarter!”)

This dictionary is the guide I desperately needed back then. It’s not just definitions—it’s the context, the “why it matters,” and the hard-won lessons behind each term. Like how:

  • Pre-washing isn’t just about shrinkage—it’s about saving your masterpiece from dye disasters

  • That innocent-looking bias cut can turn your perfect square into a parallelogram overnight

  • “UFO” doesn’t mean you’re in an X-Files episode—it’s the quilt in your closet that’s been half-finished since 2019 (we all have one)

Whether you’re:

  • Reading your first pattern and wondering what “WOF” means

  • Choosing fabric online and puzzling over “thread count vs. GSM”

  • Prepping for a quilt show and need to sound like you know what “whole cloth” entails

…this guide will be your translator, your cheat sheet, and your secret weapon. No more nodding along while secretly confused. No more buying the wrong materials. Just clear, practical explanations from someone who’s made every mistake so you don’t have to.

Fun Story: The first time I heard “SID,” I thought it was a new sewing machine feature—not “stitch in the ditch.” My attempt to “turn on the SID function” had the shop clerk in stitches (pun intended).

Pro Tip: Keep this bookmarked on your phone for fabric store emergencies. That moment when someone asks if you want “shot cotton” or “double gauze”? You’ll be ready.

 

 Fabric Types

TermDefinitionPro Tip
Quilting CottonTightly woven, 44-45″ wide fabric (4 oz/yd²)Prewash to avoid bleeding
VoileLightweight, silky cotton with drapeUse spray starch for stability
Linen BlendNatural fiber with rustic texturePress with steam to soften wrinkles
FlannelBrushed cotton (great for cozy backings)Wash 3x to prevent lint buildup
MinkyPlush, ultra-soft polyesterUse clips, not pins
Double GauzeTwo layers of airy cottonPerfect for summer quilts
Shot CottonTwo-color woven effectVibrant but frays easily
ChambrayDenim-like weave in lightweight cottonPrewash to prevent shrinkage
BatisteSheer, delicate cottonLayer over solids for dimension
BroadclothDense, smooth cottonStiff—better for bags than quilts

 Cutting & Piecing

TermDefinitionWhy It Matters
SelvageFinished factory edge (often printed with info)Trim it off—it doesn’t stretch!
BiasDiagonal grain (most stretchy direction)Essential for curved piecing
Fat Quarter18″ x 22″ cut (vs. 9″ x 44″)More flexible for large blocks
Fat Eighth9″ x 22″ cutGreat for small projects
Jelly Roll2.5″ x 44″ pre-cut stripsSaves cutting time
Charm Pack5″ x 5″ pre-cut squaresInstant scrappy quilts
Layer Cake10″ x 10″ pre-cut squaresFast modern quilts
GrainlineDirection of fabric threadsCut on grain for stability
Directional PrintDesign with a clear “up” (e.g., stripes)Cut all pieces the same way
Tone-on-ToneSubtle print (e.g., white-on-white)Shows off quilting stitches

 Batting & Backing

TermDefinitionBest Use
BeardingBatting fibers poking through fabricUse tighter weaves like muslin
LoftBatting thickness (low, mid, high)Low loft = flatter quilts
ScrimStabilizing layer in some battingsAllows wider quilting spacing
Wide-Back Fabric108″+ wide backing fabricNo seams needed!
BleedingDyes transferring when wetUse Color Catchers when washing
Pre-Cut BattingSized for standard quilts (e.g., twin, queen)No trimming hassle

 Quilting Techniques

TermDefinitionTip
SID (Stitch in the Ditch)Quilting along seam linesUse invisible thread
FMQ (Free Motion Quilting)Hand-guided machine quiltingStart with meandering loops
Echo QuiltingStitching parallel to shapes¼” spacing is classic
Tied QuiltingSecured with yarn/thread knotsGreat for thick battings
English Paper PiecingHand-sewing around paper templatesPortable project
Foundation Paper PiecingSewing onto printed paper patternsPerfect precision
UFOUnFinished ObjectWe all have them!

 Color & Design

TermDefinitionUse Case
ValueLightness/darkness of colorHigh contrast = bold designs
OMBRGradual color fadeModern quilt backgrounds
BatikWax-resist dyed fabricVibrant colors, no repeats
MottledSpeckled, uneven dye effectHides quilting mistakes
BlenderSmall-scale print that reads solidCreates visual rest areas

 Tools & Notions

TermDefinitionWhy You Need It
Walking FootFeeds layers evenlyMust-have for quilting
Rotary CutterPizza-wheel-like fabric cutterFaster than scissors
Design WallFlannel-covered surface for layoutsSaves your back!
Hera MarkerCreases fabric temporarilyNo chalk residue
Seam RipperSmall tool for undoing stitchesYour best/worst friend

 Quilt Anatomy

TermDefinitionPart of Quilt
Quilt SandwichTop + batting + backingThe whole shebang
SashingFabric strips between blocksAdds breathing room
BorderFraming fabric around edgesFinishes the design
BindingFabric wrapping the raw edgesFinal polished touch
LabelStitched-on info (date, name)Future heirloom detail

 Quilt Math

TermDefinitionFormula
DropHow far quilt hangs over bedMattress depth + 10″
OverhangSide drape lengthMattress width + 20″
Block SizeFinished measurement + ½” seam allowance12″ block = 12.5″ cut

 

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